A recent Environmental Working Group (EWG) report claims that less than 25% of sunscreens on the U.S. market are both safe and effective. While this might alarm consumers, many dermatologists say the report may overstate the risks and lack scientific credibility.

What the EWG Report Says

According to the EWG, just 498 out of 2,204 sunscreens evaluated met their criteria for safety and efficacy. The organization flagged numerous products for issues such as:

  • The inclusion of controversial ingredients like oxybenzone or vitamin A

  • Spray or powder formulations

  • Sunscreens with SPF over 50+

  • Formulas with unbalanced UVA/UVB protection

  • Marketing claims deemed misleading, such as "sunblock"

The EWG assessed each product based on ingredient safety, SPF integrity, UVA/UVB balance, and how well ingredients hold up under sunlight.

What Experts Are Saying

Despite the bold claims, many dermatologists disagree with the EWG’s conclusions.

“They’re cherry-picking safety data,” said Dr. Adam Friedman, Chair of Dermatology at George Washington University.

The Controversy Over Chemical Sunscreens

The EWG criticizes chemical sunscreens, particularly those containing oxybenzone, citing concerns about hormone disruption. However, research has yet to confirm any harmful biological effects in humans.

“There’s no solid evidence that these ingredients are endocrine disruptors,” Friedman emphasized. Large-scale data suggests that chemical sunscreens are safe for human use.

The report also warns about octocrylene and its potential impact on coral reefs, but experts argue that the concentrations used in sunscreen are too low to pose any real threat.

What About Vitamin A?

The EWG claims that vitamin A breaks down in sunlight and could accelerate skin aging. While some forms of vitamin A are unstable in the sun, dermatologists note that not all formulations are harmful—and some may even support skin health.

Are Spray Sunscreens Really Unsafe?

Spray sunscreens were flagged due to concerns over uneven application and inhalation risks. Experts agree that they’re often used improperly, but studies show they don’t pose serious health risks when applied correctly.

“They’re a convenient option for people who otherwise wouldn’t use sunscreen,” noted Dr. Elizabeth Bahar Houshmand, a dermatologist in Dallas.

SPF Confusion: More Isn’t Always Better

The report also questioned high-SPF products (e.g., SPF 100), claiming they give a false sense of security.

“SPF 30 blocks 97–98% of UVB rays, and SPF 100 only slightly more,” said Dr. Susan Taylor, President of the American Academy of Dermatology. “Regardless of SPF, you should reapply sunscreen every two hours.”

However, Friedman argues that higher SPF can compensate for under-application, a common problem among consumers.

U.S. Sunscreen Standards: Outdated or Responsible?

The EWG criticized the FDA for lagging behind the European Union in approving new UV filters. While it’s true that some newer ingredients are not permitted in U.S. sunscreens, experts say the current regulations ensure safety.

“U.S. standards are strict for a reason—none of the approved ingredients pose a proven risk,” Houshmand added.

Financial Conflicts of Interest?

The report's credibility is further questioned due to potential financial conflicts. EWG allows brands to pay evaluation and licensing fees to be featured on its approved list and includes affiliate links for purchases.

“That raises ethical questions,” said Dr. Ida Orengo, Chair of Dermatology at Baylor College of Medicine.

What You Should Actually Look for in a Sunscreen

Despite the debate, all experts agree on one thing: the best sunscreen is the one you’ll actually use every day.

Look for sunscreens that are:

  • Broad-spectrum (protects against both UVA and UVB)

  • Water-resistant

  • SPF 30 or higher

Apply one ounce (about a shot glass full) to all exposed skin, and reapply every two hours, especially after swimming or sweating.

Also remember:

  • Wear a wide-brimmed hat and UV-protective clothing

  • Use sunglasses with UV protection

  • Seek shade during peak sun hours

  • Be extra cautious around water, sand, and snow, which reflect UV rays

Bottom Line

While the EWG report may raise valid concerns about certain formulations and marketing claims, dermatologists caution against fear-based messaging that could discourage sunscreen use altogether.

Instead of stressing over which sunscreen is “perfect,” focus on daily application, proper technique, and sun-smart habits. These steps remain the most effective way to protect your skin from sunburn, premature aging, and skin cancer.