What Is Urea And Why Is It Used In Skincare?

Urea, also known as carbamide, is a naturally occurring compound produced in the liver as part of the body's metabolic processes. While it is commonly recognized as a waste product excreted through urine, it also plays a crucial role in skin health. In dermatology, urea is valued for its moisturizing and keratolytic properties, meaning it both hydrates the skin and helps remove dead skin cells.

Urea is an essential component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which is responsible for retaining moisture in the outermost layer of the skin. For this reason, it is widely used in topical products designed to treat dry, rough, or scaly skin and chronic skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and keratosis.

Benefits Of Urea For The Skin

Moisturizes And Retains Hydration
Urea is a humectant, meaning it draws water into the skin from both the environment and deeper layers of the epidermis. This ability helps the skin remain soft and supple. Clinical studies have confirmed urea’s effectiveness in treating dry, cracked skin, especially on areas prone to dehydration, such as the feet.

Exfoliates Dead Skin Cells
In higher concentrations, urea acts as a keratolytic agent. This means it breaks down the protein bonds that hold dead skin cells together, allowing them to shed more easily. This exfoliating effect can help reduce rough patches, lessen the appearance of calluses, and smooth scaly skin.

Enhances Penetration Of Other Ingredients
Urea improves skin permeability, allowing other topical medications and active ingredients to penetrate the skin barrier more effectively. This is especially helpful when used in combination with antifungal or antibacterial treatments.

Supports Fungal Infection Treatments
Fungal conditions like onychomycosis (fungal nail infections) are difficult to treat due to the thick structure of nails. Applying urea before or along with antifungal medications can soften the nail and allow the drug to reach deeper layers, potentially improving treatment success.

Reduces Signs Of Aging
Chronic sun exposure can lead to photoaging, especially on the hands and face. Research has shown that creams containing urea can improve the texture and tone of photodamaged skin by boosting hydration and encouraging skin cell renewal.

Soothes Irritated Or Inflamed Skin
Because of its moisturizing and exfoliating actions, urea can help calm redness and reduce the discomfort associated with conditions like eczema, keratosis pilaris, or xerosis. It helps reinforce the skin barrier and restore its natural function.

Products That Contain Urea And Their Uses

Urea is incorporated into a variety of skincare products, including moisturizers, creams, gels, body washes, and therapeutic ointments. The concentration of urea in each product largely determines its function.

Low Concentrations (2–10%)
These are typically used for daily hydration and managing mild dryness. Products in this range are excellent for general moisturizing, especially for people with sensitive skin or those managing xerosis.

Medium Concentrations (10–30%)
This level of urea is found in products targeting more moderate concerns such as eczema, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis. It hydrates while gently softening thickened or scaly skin.

High Concentrations (30% Or More)
These products are more potent and generally recommended for treating severe dryness, ichthyosis, corns, calluses, or keratoderma. At this level, urea delivers stronger exfoliating effects.

Common skin conditions treated with urea-based products include:

  • Eczema (atopic dermatitis)

  • Psoriasis

  • Keratosis pilaris

  • Ichthyosis

  • Xerosis (chronic dry skin)

  • Corns and calluses

  • Thickened skin on the feet or hands

How To Apply Urea-Based Skincare Products

Choose The Right Formula
Selecting a product based on your skin type and condition is essential. Those with sensitive skin should start with lower concentrations, while individuals managing severe scaling or thick skin may benefit from stronger formulations.

Follow Usage Instructions Carefully
In most cases, urea-based creams or lotions are applied once or twice daily. The product should be used after cleansing the skin, ideally when the skin is still slightly damp, to maximize absorption.

Steps For Full-Body Application

  1. Soak in a lukewarm bath or shower for 5 to 10 minutes

  2. Gently cleanse with a fragrance-free, non-irritating cleanser

  3. Pat the skin dry, leaving it slightly damp

  4. Apply any prescription medication as directed by your healthcare provider

  5. Apply the urea-based product to the rest of your body, avoiding areas treated with prescription topicals

  6. Allow the products to absorb before dressing

Occlusive Properties
Many urea products also function as emollients and occlusives. They create a protective layer over the skin that prevents water loss for several hours—typically between 6 and 24, depending on the formula.

Safety Considerations And Side Effects

Urea has been extensively studied for topical use and is generally considered safe for long-term application. Still, it’s important to be aware of potential side effects, especially when using products with higher concentrations.

Possible Skin Irritation
Some individuals may experience mild irritation, redness, or a stinging sensation upon initial use. This is more likely to occur with products containing over 20% urea. These symptoms usually resolve on their own with continued use or by switching to a lower concentration.

Rare Allergic Reactions
Although uncommon, allergic reactions like contact dermatitis can occur. Symptoms may include itching, swelling, or rash. Performing a patch test before widespread application can help determine your skin’s sensitivity.

How To Do A Patch Test
Apply a small amount of the product to a discreet area such as the inner elbow. Monitor the site over 7 to 10 days for any adverse reaction. If the skin remains clear, the product is likely safe to use on a larger area.

Pregnancy And Children
Urea is not known to pose any risks during pregnancy or in children when used as directed. However, you should always consult a dermatologist before beginning any new skincare regimen, particularly if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, or applying the product to a child.

Why Dermatologists Trust Urea

Urea is recognized by the World Health Organization (WHO) as an essential medicine for dermatological care. It is one of the few ingredients backed by decades of clinical evidence supporting its efficacy, safety, and affordability.

Even in high concentrations or with long-term use, urea maintains a low risk profile, making it an ideal solution for managing chronic skin conditions that require continuous treatment.

Is Urea Right For You?

If you’re dealing with dry, flaky, or irritated skin, or managing a chronic skin disorder, urea-based skincare may offer significant relief. However, the best results come from using the right formulation at the right concentration—and combining it with a skincare routine that supports barrier repair and hydration.

Before starting any new product, especially those used for medical skin conditions, speak with a qualified healthcare provider or dermatologist.