Glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane, plays a crucial role in chemical exfoliation and enhancing collagen production in the skin. Regularly adding glycolic acid to your skincare routine can improve skin texture, smooth out wrinkles, and help clear clogged pores, ultimately giving you a healthier complexion.

You can find glycolic acid in a variety of over-the-counter (OTC) skincare products, including toners, serums, treatment creams, and peels. You can also opt for medical-grade glycolic acid treatments, such as chemical peels, for more potent results. Let’s dive deeper into how glycolic acid works, its benefits, and the possible side effects.

How Does Glycolic Acid Work for Your Skin?

Glycolic acid has very small molecules compared to other AHAs, making it easily absorbed into the skin. Once absorbed, it works as a chemical exfoliator that removes dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. Glycolic acid helps increase cell turnover, allowing newer skin cells to replace the old, dead ones.

Besides exfoliation, glycolic acid also stimulates collagen production in your skin. Collagen is a vital protein that keeps your skin firm and elastic. With increased collagen production, glycolic acid helps improve the skin’s structure, giving it a plump and youthful appearance while reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

What Are the Key Benefits of Glycolic Acid?

Using glycolic acid in your skincare routine can provide several benefits, including improved skin texture, a brighter complexion, and better hydration. Here are some of the major advantages glycolic acid can offer:

Reduces the Appearance of Fine Lines

As we age, the skin’s collagen production decreases, leading to the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. Glycolic acid helps counteract these effects by stimulating collagen synthesis. It also promotes better skin tone and texture, making the skin look smoother and more youthful. Moreover, glycolic acid boosts your skin’s hyaluronic acid levels, which helps retain moisture and plump the skin.

Fades Dark Spots and Sun Damage

Glycolic acid is effective in treating hyperpigmentation, which includes dark spots caused by acne scars or sun damage. By exfoliating the skin’s surface, glycolic acid helps brighten the skin and fade these dark patches. It is also safe for use on darker skin tones, making it a versatile option for those dealing with pigmentation issues.

Research has shown that glycolic acid can also protect collagen from the harmful effects of UV rays, potentially helping to prevent future sun damage.

Unclogs Pores and Treats Acne

Glycolic acid is particularly beneficial for people with oily and acne-prone skin. It works by reducing excess oil production and clearing clogged pores, which are major contributors to acne. Glycolic acid’s exfoliating action removes dead skin cells and prevents the buildup of dirt and oil in the pores, reducing the likelihood of breakouts.

It can also help treat keratosis pilaris (also known as strawberry skin), a condition where small red bumps form due to blocked hair follicles.

How Should You Use Glycolic Acid in Your Routine?

When incorporating glycolic acid into your skincare routine, it’s essential to follow the instructions carefully to avoid skin irritation. Since glycolic acid increases your skin's sensitivity to the sun, it’s best to use it at night and apply sunscreen during the day. Here’s how you can use glycolic acid products:

Cleansers

Start with a pea-sized amount once or twice a day, depending on your skin’s sensitivity. Most people find that using glycolic acid cleansers at night is best to reduce sun exposure.

Toners, Serums, or Creams

For toners, serums, and creams, apply a few drops or a pea-sized amount once a day. These products should also be applied in the evening for optimal results.

Glycolic Acid Peels

Glycolic acid peels are more potent than other glycolic acid products, so they should be used less frequently. Depending on your skin’s tolerance and the product’s concentration, you may use a peel once a week or every two weeks.

Start Slowly

To minimize irritation, start by using glycolic acid products one to two times a week. Gradually increase the frequency as your skin becomes accustomed to it.

Potential Side Effects of Glycolic Acid

Although glycolic acid is generally safe for most skin types, it can cause irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. Here are some common side effects to be aware of:

  • Redness and irritation

  • Peeling and flaking

  • Skin dryness

  • Burning or stinging sensation

People with highly sensitive skin may want to opt for milder alternatives like lactic acid. After using glycolic acid, always follow up with a moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated and prevent the skin barrier from becoming compromised.

Another major concern is that glycolic acid can increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight, making you more prone to sunburn. Always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher when using glycolic acid during the day.

Can You Use Glycolic Acid with Retinol?

Glycolic acid and retinol both increase cell turnover, but using them together can cause excessive irritation. It's best to alternate their use, applying glycolic acid on certain nights and retinol on others. This will allow your skin to benefit from both ingredients without over-exfoliating or irritating your skin.

Retinol is known for its ability to increase collagen production and reduce fine lines, making it an effective ingredient for anti-aging. Using both glycolic acid and retinol can be beneficial for those with acne-prone or aging skin, but it’s essential to build up your skin's tolerance gradually.

A Quick Review

Glycolic acid is an effective skincare ingredient that can improve the appearance of your skin by reducing fine lines, fading dark spots, and unclogging pores. It works by exfoliating the skin and stimulating collagen production, which helps maintain the skin’s firmness and elasticity.

However, it’s important to introduce glycolic acid into your routine slowly and protect your skin from sun exposure. With proper use, glycolic acid can be a powerful addition to your skincare regimen for smoother, brighter, and more youthful-looking skin.